Tonga Time (Update 50)
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Bula Viti, Rotuma kei Vuravura

Sorry our report yesterday was cut short but we were facing difficulties with our satellite phone and computer hook up. We have gone forward a day now and are on Tonga time as we approach the International Date Line.

Tuesday evening saw a larger crowd gather at the Anglican Hall at Leifiifi. The word had gone out about Ratu Manoa’s story telling and many more Fijians had come to hear his now famous ‘Lui the Chinaman’, Koli Lotu Katolika’ (Catholic Dog),  ‘Vei Tavalini’ and ‘Imaria’ jokes that we have got accustomed to hearing at each gathering with the Fijian community.

After the first round of jokes, people would keep requesting more and more stories, then very late in the evening they wanted to hear a repeat of his famous jokes above.

Even though the crew have heard the jokes many many times, we are still not sick of hearing them. He is such a talented story teller, a real ‘Kai Rewa’.

Wednesday was more or less a rest day for the crew. We started with an 8am crew meeting and then we all went down to the Apia Marina to await the Fiji Rugby Team for a photo on board the Uto ni Yalo.

However there was some miscommunication and when I checked with the team manager, the team had dispersed for a day off and it was difficult for the photo shoot to take place.

So most of the crew walked into town to look around while I took Rupeni and the girls to meet Melina (Keil) Annandale, my wife’s sister so she could take them to do the vegetable and meat shopping.

Ratu Manoa also came with us so we could make a few phone calls to Fiji in relation to our arrival in Fiji later this month.

At 4pm the crew met back at the hall and I collected everyone and bought them to the Keil residence at Moototua for a small ceremony to thank the Keil Family for all their hospitality during our stay.

The Keil family had provided us with transport, mattresses to sleep on at the hall, food, and a place to stay (Carson and I).

The crew presented our final Tanoa to Richard Keil and also planted a special Niu that produces very large coconut with a very small nut for making ‘Magimagi’ (Coconut fibre rope).

We were very surprised when the Keil family in return presented a fine mat ‘ia’toga’ to Ratu Manoa and food and lavalava’s to the crew.
 
This was followed by a huge feast of roast pork, octopus, dalo, palusami all made in the umu by Melina’s husband Eddie Annandale and his boys.

Later some of the crew’s from the other canoes joined us to celebrate our last evening in Apia.

Thursday morning we were up early to pack and clean before taking our gear on board the Uto ni Yalo. Rupeni and I did the last minute shopping for bread etc and I started running the crew down to the canoe.

The Foftein support vessel had asked if we could send along two crew to help them on the trip to Vava’u as they were short staffed. Salome and Unaisi were supposed to go but Salome decided that she wanted to stay with the crew and the Uto ni Yalo till all the way to Fiji. So Unaisi bid us farewell on the dock at 9.30am.

Our departure time was set for 10am and we had everything aboard by 9.45am. At 10am I gathered the crew on the floating pontoon to farewell the families that had gathered which included the Dalton, Annandale and Keil families.

Johnathan has been staying with his Sister Leeanne who is married to Chris Dalton, the Air Pacific Manager in Samoa. Leeanne now works at the Tanoa Tusitala Hotel in Apia.

Ratu Manoa made an emotional masu that had us all in tears including our hosts. Then the crew embraced all those gathered and we moved back on board. The boys pulled together on the foredeck to perform the ‘Vutala na Ua’ bole that captivated the crowd gathered on the dock and everyone in the marina.

Within a few minutes we were backing out of the dock and while turning towards the entrance of the marina, we raised the sails.

Then everyone was on the rail waving and yelling our farewells. It was a sad farewell and Salome was visibly upset as she had become very close to the Annandale family and their children.

As we cleared the Apia Harbour entrance a 25knot Easterly awaited us. We were soon surfing along at 12knots towards the island of Manono between the two main islands of Upolu and Savaii.

The crew was quiet and not in their usual jovial mood. We all sat staring back at Apia. Then the fishing lines snapped taught and we had two Skipjack Tuna on the lines. Tevita and Sonny quickly hauled them in.

Then once again the crew sat quietly, no one saying a word. Johnathan had gone below to get his jacket. Just as he appeared through the aft starboard hatch, a large wave broke over the side of the canoe completely drenching him and several of the crew on deck.

 Tukana yelled from his dry spot on the Port side “Isou me suasua Skipper”, everyone cracked up laughing. It was as if the wave had come along to lift our spirits. The crew were soon joking with each other again and sharing stories about our wonderful stay in Samoa.

We are currently only 90 nautical miles from the Vava’u Group main Passage. We passed the Niuatoputapu Group early this morning and could see Tafahi Island very clearly on our Starboard side about 20 nautical miles away.

I leave you with this beautiful e-mail we received from Apia last night.

From: "Kemu Qoroya”
Subject: Bon Voyage from Apia
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:37:38 -1100

Talofa Uto ni Yalo Crew,

I hope the last few hours of sailing has been pleasant for you. It's raining
cats n dogs here in Apia and we're getting flashes of lightning and thunder
as I email you. The wind picked up and the rain came down as soon as you
sailed out of the harbour. The man from above and the gods of the sea must
have answered your prayers.

I have been following your voyage through your logs and I envy all of you
for breaking waves by being on an adventure of a lifetime. Your stories are
captivating and the pictures capture the beauty and colour of the pacific,
its people and the big wide pacific ocean and how we need to work together
to protect it.

I witnessed something special this morning while bidding you farewell at the
Apia Marina. Your Mana surely does follow you everywhere. Witnessing the
camaraderie you have amongst the crew and with the crews of the other
canoes. It made me proud to be Fijian and having met and rubbed shoulders
with special ambassadors of my island home, the Uto ni Yalo and its crew.
The farewell this morning was emotionally charged but one that will remain
with me for a long time. The "Vutala na Ua" bole made it all worth the while
and I am privileged to have witnessed such enthusiasm from a special group
of people. I stood there waving as you hoist your sail with the Fiji flag
fluttering in the wind to the sounds of the davui. I froze in my tracks when
I saw Rupeni waving another Fiji flag from the stern of the canoe. I'm so
proud of you all for being great ambassadors of your country, villages,
families, friends and flying the flag high for Fiji.

May the winds be in your favour and may the stars safely guide you home.

God Bless!

Loloma's

Kemu & Emily, Mootuatua, Apia, Samoa.

PS. I wanna hear more fish stories :). Catch a big one for me.

Kemu we caught two good size Mahimahi today and six Skipjack tuna yesterday so it has been nothing but ika for breakfast lunch and dinner. I will be thinking of you when we eat dinner tonight.

Moce

Colin/Uto ni Yalo

Report by Satellite Phone courtesy of DIGICEL