Magical Motu Vaiemanu (Update 26)
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Date : Friday 7th May 2010
Place : Motu Vaiemanu (Seabird Island)

Friday was our day for departure from the port of Rairua where we were
berthed at on the island of Raivavae, but all of that was put on hold as the
weather changed and was not favorable to sail up to Moorea. We still had to
leave the berth because the local cargo ship was coming in with supplies so
the skipper for the Faafaite (Tahiti Canoe) decided we should go to one of
the little uninhabited Motu's or islands which was about an hour away.

We left the docks at 1530 hrs after an afternoon filled farewell and huge
lunch (again) from the locals. There was food that I know a lot of Fijians
would kill for, especially those living overseas. We had Cawaki, Vasua,
Fish, Chicken, Kokoda, Dalo, Uto, Tavioka, cakes, pies and so many other
local Tahitian delicacies that we had never tasted before.

After the lunch we were given more food and bread to take onboard. And all
of this was given out of the goodness of their hearts. They would not accept
money when we tried to pay them for all the fruits and vegies that they
brought, we were so touched by their generosity so we gave away Uto Ni Yalo
T-shirts instead which they gladly accepted.

All the vaka's (especially ours) look like a bilibili coming down from the
highlands with bunches of bananas hanging all round the railings. We
departed Rairua wharf with shouts and singing from the locals as we made our
way following the Faafaite to the little islet of Motu Vaiemanu.

An hour later we were putting stern anchors out and beaching the Vakas on a
powder white sandy beach with coconut trees and nokonoko trees swaying in
the breeze.

We were escorted in by locals who came out in the V1 canoes which were soon
hijacked by Stubby (Kele), Rupeni and Salome who went racing around the
lagoon like they'd never seen a single canoe before. The locals had to
practically pry them away from it so they could go home.

Colin and I got our spear guns and snorkels ready and went for a dive to
check out the sights. We were very surprised at the amount of Vasua and
Katavatu while diving. So much of it that you can't put your feet down.

By the time we got back to the Uto Ni Yalo there was a huge bonfire on the
beach and all the crew were sitting around playing guitar, Ukulele, singing
and telling stories. Most of the crew came onboard and took their sleeping
bags ashore to sleep next to the bonfire.

Vinaka

Johnathan
Skipper
Uto ni Yalo

 

Date : Saturday 8th May 2010
Place : Motu Vaiemanu (Seabird Island)

We awoke on Saturday morning to a wonderful sunrise. Some of the crew had
slept ashore while a handful of us stayed on board. Thankfully all the
snorers slept on shore so it was a very peaceful sleep on the Uto for
Unaisi, Salome, Johnathan, Oscar, Tukana, Steven, Rupeni and I.

At 8am I woke Johnathan and handed him a strong cup of coffee then we headed
out in the Zodiac with Unaisi and Steven to look for a nice dive spot.

Fifteen minutes from where the canoes were moored on the beach, we found a
few coral heads and decided to stop and explore. The water was beautiful and
clear and there was plenty of fish around. We speared a few fish for lunch
then headed back to the canoes.

Most of the crews, including our crew were preparing lunch on shore so our
catch went ashore so they could tavu the fish.

Johnathan, Carson and Steven went out in the Zodiac again armed with a
pinchbar to get some Vasua. They were back in an hour with a sackful.
Raivavae has such a big lagoon coupled with a small population (950 people),
the ocean is bountiful with sealife.

Salome had already prepared the moli, rokete and masima for the Vasua which
the crew on board had with Dalo for lunch. Joining us for lunch was Magnus
Danbolt, the skipper of Te Matau a Maui who dropped by for a chat and stayed
for lunch.

Everyone relaxed, swam, paddled the afternoon away. After eighteen days at
sea then two fairly intense days on Raivavae, this is exactly what all the
crews needed. It is as if the wind had decided not to cooperate with us for
this purpose.

John Misky from Samoa joined us in the evening for kava followed by a dinner
of Rourou courtesy of Food Processors (Fiji) Ltd, mixed with Vasua and Dalo.

John's mother is from Tokelau, so John told us some stories from these
islands and the relationship between Tokelau and Samoa.

Two boys who had paddled out on their V1 canoes, also joined us for Kava
while they waited for the moon to rise so they could find their way home.

It was a relaxing evening once again full of laughter.

On Sunday morning, the sky was dark and overcast. After a banana, pawpaw and
graprefruit breakfast, Moala, Kai'afa, Steven and Unaisi went ahore to
prepare a lovo.

Carson and Salome worked on the hull graphics. After each voyage, we seem to
lose some of the vinyl graphics off the side and need to replace it. As the
canoe is sitting on the beach, it is an ideal time to do this.

Vilisoni, Sonny, Kelekele and I work on the bowsprits to repair a broken
piece we only noticed yesterday was broken. There are two long stainless
steel bolts going down into the hull through a crossbeam which sits across
the bow.

This crossbeam holds the nets on the bow. The bolts have worked loose and
seem to be where our bows have been leaking all along.

We dry everything out, epoxy one broken piece and then Sikaflex everything
back into place. While doing this we miss the huge lunch being prepared on
shore. Thankfully Rupeni brings us over some food which consists of Uto,
Dalo, Fish, Pork (bought out to the Motu in the morning by some locals),
vasua, chicken and cakes.

We hear the news that we will leave after lunch as we have been asked to be
in Papeete on the 13th now and not the 15th as earlier informed.

Because the winds have dropped away to nothing, it will mean all five canoes
will need to be towed for at least 24 hours if not more.

We prepare the Uto ni Yalo for departure and motor off behind Faafaite
towards the pass where we will hook up with our support vessels for the tow
towards Moorea and Tahiti Iti.

Te Matau a Maui has problems with its solar outboards and needs to ask for a
tow from Marumaru Atua to the passage.

As we motor along the shore of Raivavae, the locals come to the beach to
wave us goodbye. Cars stop along the road and honk their horns. It is sad to
depart Raivavae but we leave knowing we have fully experienced the
generosity and culture of this wonderful island.

As far as we know, we are the first Fijians to visit Raivavae and we hope it
will not be too long before more Fijians are back to visit again. We know
for sure, the Uto ni Yalo and its crew will be remembered by the people of
Raivavae through song, dance and legend for many years to come. (Shots of
all the canoes tied onshore cane be found at www.fijivoyaging.com)

Vinaka

Colin/Uto ni Yalo

Report by Satellite Phone courtesy of DIGICEL