A Tongan Feast (Update 53)
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Date: Wednesday 23rd June
Time: 1930 hours Tonga Time (GMT - 11 hours)
Position: 18* 38.1’ South/ 174* 13.6’ West (230 n.m. from Oneata Passage)

Bula Viti, Rotuma kei Vuravura

Last night, Aunofo Havea the Tongan crew member on the Hine Moana invited all the crews home to enjoy a real Tongan feast.

There was lobster, crab, kokoda, roast pork, palusami, shopsuey, yam and taro. We washed it all down with fresh ‘bu’ coconut juice.

I left soon after in a taxi so I missed the fire dancing performance done by Paul.

Dieter Paulmann our main Fiji Island Voyaging Society sponsor had asked that I call him in Germany at 9pm and I wanted to make sure I called early.

My telephone conversation with Dieter was very positive. He thanked the Uto ni Yalo crew for setting a very high benchmark for the rest of the crews to follow. He asked that I relay his best wishes to the crew and to thank them for all their hard work.

What a fantastic day today was. The small Fijian community in Vava’u put on a spread fit for kings.

We arrived at Dorothy and Ratu Timoci Nawadradra’s home at 1.30pm on the Paradise Hotel bus. Dorothy and Ratu were kind enough to invite the two other crews plus the support boat crews.

Once we were all inside the downstairs living room belonging to Brian Whippy, the Uto ni Yalo crew presented a sevusevu to Dorothy and Ratu Timoci Nawadradra.

Steven did the sevusevu and Ratu Manoa accepted the sevusevu on behalf of our hosts. Everything was in Fijian so following the sevusevu, I explained what had taken place in English for the rest of the crews.

I also introduced Ratu Timoci and Dorothy to everyone. A few men sat at the head of room and I explained to the voyagers that these men were part Fijian and most had ties to Lau including Lakeba and Vanuabalavu. Next Johnathan said a few words to thank our hosts and to say vinaka to the other crews who we would be leaving behind today.

Clare, wife of the Foftein skipper, Andrew Gardiner then thanked all the crews with special mention to Magnus Danbolt who had done a lot of work in New Zealand in the lead up to the voyage and who had helped keep the project together when things went off the rails a little last year.

She needed assistance from her husband Andy as she broke down in tears soon after starting her speech but she came right after Andy helped her out.

Later she said, “The only way I can get Andy to speak is to cry”.

Then Ratu Timoci gave a very emotional speech welcoming everyone and opening up his home for all of us. He said “We are your family while you are in Vava’u”.

Soon after the food was ready and after grace we lined up at the buffet table for a wonderful meal put on the local Fijian community.

Soon after lunch, there were a few speeches made by Frank Kawe from Te Matau, followed by Koleni Apulu from Samoa and Kalo Nathaniel from Vanuatu. The speeches were focused on our departure.

Ratu Timoci bought out a Fiji flag for the Uto ni Yalo crew to sign, then we posed with the flag for a crew photo. Soon after we sang a very emotional ‘Isa Lei’ that was followed by a song from the Samoan crew.

Then we said our farewells and the first lot of crew members left on the bus. The Uto ni Yalo crew stayed behind for the second bus.

The Fiji flag was tied to the bonnet of a Nissan Cefiro belonging to an Indian gentleman from Ba. Ratu Manoa and Ratu Timoci rode in the Cefiro ahead of us in the bus with their horn blasting all the way into town.

People stopped to look at us and we felt like we were the Ba Soccer team after winning the BOG. Everyone waved and shouted ‘Moce’ when they realised who we were.

Earlier this morning, Paul and Carson took the inflatable tender to town to complete the clearing formalities. Then I sent them back to get ice. Access to the town is much easier by boat than on the road. The town sits right on the edge of the harbour.

We have taken on a new crew member, Aunofo Havea who is from Vava’u. Aunofo was so happy to be included in our crew for the trip home.

Once we were back at the Paradise Hotel, Ratu Timoci had the bucket of yaqona on the little jetty while the crew prepared the canoe for departure.

We hoisted sails, stowed food and water containers and deflated the inflatable. Then we went ashore for the last couple of bowls of kava with the crew of Te Matau a Maui and Hine Moana who had come to farewell us.

Once on board the boys performed the Bole ‘Vutala na Ua’ for which the Te Matau crew responded with a beautiful haka. Then at 5pm sharp we departed sailing past the Foftein and Hine Moana tied up at the wharf.

Once we had said all our goodbyes, we gathered in a circle on the aft deck and Steven said a prayer to bless our final voyage home. Ratu Manoa made a very emotional speech in Fijian that had us all in unashamed tears.

I followed up by welcoming Aunofo on board and reminding the crew of their responsibilities when we get home to be ‘champions of the ocean’ and to give back to the project we have started.

We put our hands in the middle for a ‘Uto ni Yalo’ cheer and then we embraced each other. What a fantastic feeling it is to be finally heading home.

Today was a sad day but one that has made us realise how many good friends we have made through this voyage. Today was a celebration of those wonderful friendships and the achievements of this amazing crew.

As we head due West from Vava’u towards Oneata Passage, we leave with a heavy heart, knowing that soon we will be back with our loved ones.

Once again Vinaka Ratu Timoci and Dorothy

Moce

Colin/Uto ni Yalo

Report by Satellite Phone courtesy of DIGICEL TONGA

The Uto Ni Yalo is due to arrive in Suva this Saturday, the 26th of June. They plan to dock opposite the Handicraft Market at 12pm where they will be accorded a traditional welcome. Please go to www.fijivoyaging.com to find out more.